Spots:澎湖深度--風的軌跡
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From PHSea
風開始的地方--澎湖
- 「基隆雨、新竹風」這是眾所皆知的一句俗諺,新竹素享風城盛名,然而澎湖群島散落於管狀的台灣海峽南端,秋、冬兩季迎著西伯利亞南下的大陸高壓與東北季風,動輒十級的冬季季風日夜狂捲,飛沙走石的景象如要冠予「風島」的頭銜實不為過。每年十月到翌年四月,強勁的季風在澎湖群島彌天漫地整整吹拂半年,風的印象也慢慢就根植在澎湖人的血液中,風之子的形象也成了澎湖人的識別標誌之一,而「風的文化產業」這幾年也慢慢在澎湖滋生,成為遊客拜訪澎湖時嚮往的景觀
- 其中最為遊客樂樂津道的莫過於矗立於白沙鄉中屯村外迎風波上的八根高聳入天的風車,雪白挺立的風車發電機組除了擔負澎湖地區百分之十二的發電量外,藍天、白雲色調、碧海與碩大的風車葉片更成為遊客爭相拍照的著名景點。陽光普照的夏季白晝有澄澈的藍白印象高掛在澎湖北方的天空,入夜後隨著台電在風車基座打上的藝術照明燈光,讓風車在海島夜色中衝出一道銀光的律動,到了冬季隨著十級季風推撫著風車巨大的葉片,風車葉片高運載地快速轉動,轟隆轟隆的葉扇聲震耳且氣勢磅礡,站在風車下令人震撼。。
- 風的產業在澎湖的榮生不僅僅只有中屯風車的印象,慢慢地群島街巷間各類造型的風車裝置藝術林立,官方與民間善用風車的圖騰創造了澎湖的風車美景連線。其中陳扶氣素人藝術家更以雙手的創意及廢棄的鋼片鐵桶打造了石泉風車碼頭宣示風島的魅力。
- 石泉風車碼頭距離馬公市區約十五分鐘車程,鄰近有遊客從事漁業休閒活動的菜園海上牧場,石泉碼頭原本只是澎湖內灣的一處靜僻小魚港,不只遊客少至,即使澎湖當地住民也鮮少找得到石泉碼頭。幾年前兩尊七爺八爺的廢鐵藝術造景悄悄地在陳扶氣的手中創生,矗立在石泉碼頭的海堤旁,接著是沿著海堤櫛比鱗次的風車一座座安上,迎風招展的腳踏車造型風車、成串的風鈴、印象派的藝術表現手法,石泉風車碼頭竟然在缺乏官、民關愛的眼神下悄然成形。
- 這些風車藝術造景由台電退休的素人藝術家陳扶氣一手巧製,把廢棄的鐵條、油桶、鐵片等物,透過藝術的巧思打造成不同的造型或簡單的風車組合。夕陽餘暉下,這些風車在晚霞中映著水光,偶有漁民在岸邊修理舢舨,草地上的籃球場會有當地的小孩在鬥牛;冬季時季風把風車搖晃地叮噹作響,遠遠地就聽到清錯地風鈴聲,石泉風車碼頭慢慢地在一個素人藝素家的傻勁下遠近馳名。
- 常常看到陳扶氣自身一人坐在港邊裝釘新的風車,或開著小發財車沿著漁港海堤將新製的風車一一安上。藝術家的身影總是有點孤單的美感,但是這種孤單工作的影像又和風車喜歡獨自舞踴於風中的調性接近。
- 過去幾年,陳扶氣收購了幾艘報廢的動力漁船,經過一年多的敲敲打打與創意裝置,廢棄的漁船瞬間翻身成為門庭若市的民宿,除了住宿的遊客以整座風車港區為伴外,亦有不少遊客專程驅車前來一覽藝術巧思的具體成果。來到石泉風車碼頭,也許安靜地欣賞這些風車作品便是一種最好的方式。
- 澎湖群島 - 風開始的地方,風的存在創造了無數風的文化資產,小門鯨魚洞風景區在北方山坡上著名的風巢田便是遊客最為熟悉的風的人文資產。澎湖人為了抵禦東北季風在冬季對農作物生長的破壞,於是就地取材地以老古石(珊瑚化石)以及玄武岩石塊在田地四邊堆起了約一尺高的石牆嚴密地包裹著田地,透過石牆抵禦季風的吹襲以保護石牆內農作物的生長。這樣的產業文化在澎湖當地人稱之為「菜宅」或「宅內」,遊客遠眺這比鄰成格的菜宅田,宛如蜂巢綿密羅布,於是便取了「蜂巢田」這樣一個有廣告口味的新名詞。
- 夏季在澎湖騎著機車依沿濱海公路馳行,有別於冬季強襲的東北季風,舒爽的西南海風從南海吹來撲打著被夏日酷陽燒灼的群島,風速與車速交融在一起感覺夏天與海洋竟彷彿在臉上一起光合作用,你會忍不住稍加催緊油門,想和夏季薰風追逐。方山地形的澎湖並無高山屏障,對來自遙遠的海風不辭徐急一一承受,說澎湖是風開始的地方,再貼切不過。
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