PHSeaFood:走動式魚市場


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From PHSea

Revision as of 15:03, 30 September 2007; view current revision
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  • 時間:2007年9月30日
    本日走動式魚貨:狗母,象魚
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    本日走動式魚貨:狗母,象魚
  • 地點:西嶼鄉外垵村碼頭
  • 搭配閱讀烤象魚乾
  • 本文
    大部分走動式魚販可以幫買主做些簡單的內臟清理工作
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    大部分走動式魚販可以幫買主做些簡單的內臟清理工作


  九月的最後一天,據說冬天已近,入秋後的澎湖總是帶點騷動,季風一日強過一日,整座島嶼安命地等待著冬季披掛上陣,冬季迫臨前,這秋日算是風雨前的寧靜,厚厚的雲絮外透出幾許迷離的陽光,有心的漁船仍解繩可討海,外垵漁港靠泊的漁船似乎比出海的多,於是漁船返航後擄回的魚訊更顯得難能可貴。
狗母:這是澎湖魚丸的主要原料,越入冬季越是肥美
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狗母:這是澎湖魚丸的主要原料,越入冬季越是肥美

   

  下午三點,外垵碼頭旁第一攤臨時漁市像地底迸出一般,遽然聚攏一撮人,外垵漁港從午後哈欠連連的沈悶中跳躍往鼎沸的魚販聲,三、五個塑膠圓藍盛著半滿的象魚、狗母,吸盤式地招引人群,湊熱鬧的,識貨的,精打細算的各自望著籃子內的鮮魚盤算,有對今日狗母的肥瘦鮮度高談闊落,有三心二意下不了決心,魚主陳穩老練地低頭剖魚清肚,一副買賣由你的豁然態度。買客觀望半响後終究一一出手,塑膠袋一斤一斤攜走狗母與象魚,這新鮮的狗母打起魚丸是上上之選,可惜澎湖茼蒿季還未開鑼,否則來鍋茼蒿魚丸湯可夠叫離鄉的澎湖遊子舌尖滾出鄉愁。
這位少東想說的是:我家的魚啦!
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這位少東想說的是:我家的魚啦!

  

  我管這類港口臨時的魚販叫做『走動式魚市場』,擁有大型漁港的村落如西嶼外垵、白沙赤崁、馬公鎖港、湖西龍門、七美南滬等,經常性約下午兩點過後漁船依序入港下艙,老馬早已識途地候在碼頭邊磨刀霍霍,一籃籃魚貨上岸落價後就比買客的手腳快慢,這類大型漁港的臨時魚販在數量與種類上均勝出;澎湖其他迷你村落或漁業沒落的碼頭區,走動式魚市場不若上述漁港熱鬧,亦較不固定,端視天氣與魚訊狀況,然因魚主與販售對象均以同村人為主,魚主返航後若有鮮度與價位漂亮的魚貨,透過各村落內的「放送頭」放送一下,自當買客聚集,如魚貨不多,只消扛著魚簍走幾家較常採買的主顧便可兜售殆罄。
狗母
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狗母

  

  走動式魚市場隨著澎湖漁業資源枯竭,普及性與豐富性大不如以往,1985年以前,澎湖沿海垂竿便可滿簍魚貨,不消中型漁船出海灑網,於是走動式魚市場數量驚人,規模則較小,澎湖人只需一竿在手便可賺外快,從天甫亮到夜眠時分,都有職業漁民或業餘釣客拎著魚簍沿村或定點販售活繃繃的鮮魚,那是一個怎樣的年代?當你想吃鮮魚時,到碼頭晃晃便可從歸航的舢舨或漁船上搶鮮,價位呢?宛如吃零食的開銷而已。這樣的盛景如今僅留在記憶內,而毒魚、炸魚及工程浩劫對生態的走動式破壞卻繼續留在眼前。
這就是象魚,澎湖人叫做臭肚,內臟不處理乾淨的話你就知道為何叫做臭肚了
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這就是象魚,澎湖人叫做臭肚,內臟不處理乾淨的話你就知道為何叫做臭肚了

     如今當我們端坐在碼頭的海堤上感嘆空蕩的魚艙時,是否有勇氣對抗從今日這一刻開始仍繼續破壞海洋的人?他們可能是政客、商賈或漁民,也可能只是你我的一個舉手之過。在這之前,或許讓我們先學習走過港口時能對海洋感動羞愧。

不少澎湖人也不喜吃臭肚,因為牠的特的腥味,不過曬成乾後烤食十分美味
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不少澎湖人也不喜吃臭肚,因為牠的特的腥味,不過曬成乾後烤食十分美味
狗母
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狗母
魚販當場可幫買家把魚內臟清理乾淨,對於遊客十分方便
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魚販當場可幫買家把魚內臟清理乾淨,對於遊客十分方便
手腳要快
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手腳要快
吆喝也是會口渴,來罐台灣金牌啤酒,就不跟台啤收廣告費了
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吆喝也是會口渴,來罐台灣金牌啤酒,就不跟台啤收廣告費了
在澎湖鄉下,有魚販的時間點就有人潮聚集
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在澎湖鄉下,有魚販的時間點就有人潮聚集
  


  • 遊客建議:
    • 不少遊客選擇住宿在鄉下村落的民宿,不少民宿亦有提供廚房炊具供住宿客烹食,每日下午如在你寄宿的村落內瞥見走動式魚市場的蹤影,不妨買些鮮魚回民宿烹煮,除自己料理外亦可請民宿老闆代勞,最下下策則可攜著魚貨到海鮮餐廳請老闆料理,付給餐廳料理費用,每盤約100至200。走動式魚販的價位固定,不太允許殺價,但保證價位合理且鮮度無可挑剔,購買時可請魚販先替你清理內臟,並請教不同魚種的最佳煮法,煮法錯誤口感落差甚大。
  • 推薦地點:
    • 澎湖全縣地圖專區
    • 馬公:鎖港里漁港(每日下午三點過後)
    • 湖西:龍門村漁港(每日下午三點過後)
    • 西嶼:外垵村漁港(每日下午三點過後)
    • 七美:南滬漁港(下午四點)
    • 各村落則不定時會有魚販走動販售,可留意放送頭的廣播