Spots:姑婆嶼上 幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫

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From PHSea

姑婆嶼上 幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫

　　前言：遠處遙望像似把玲瓏有致的「如意」的姑婆嶼，除盛產野生紫菜聞名中外之外，其廣闊的岩礁石台，海畔的青青草原，冬季時節的浪花紛紛飛，都讓人歎為觀止，昨日在島上經營水上活上的楊姓業者說，姑婆嶼上幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫，其幽美的奇景很受遊客們的喜愛。

紫菜之島

　　站在澎湖跨海大橋向北方瞭望，數哩外的海面上散布著一群島嶼，較近的兩座，左邊為土地公嶼，右邊是白沙嶼（澎湖有好幾處白沙嶼），遠處左側最大的一塊是姑婆嶼，右側次大的為鐵砧嶼。四月?的一個晴朗天氣，幾個人搭上一艘小漁船，航向澎湖的西北海，終於叩訪了這些嚮往已久的無人島。

　　姑婆嶼像一把玲瓏有致的如意，由南北四座連綿不絕的「方山」（指頂面平坦而四周陡峭的山狀地形）組成，滿潮時，面積零點二平方公里，乾潮時，裸露出大片岩礁，面積增加一倍，海岸線亦長達三千公尺。正對「碼頭」的山坡上，有間費人猜疑的平頂水泥屋，一個門，兩扇窗。兩坪大的空間滿簡陋得連門板都沒有，門旁鑲嵌著一方玄武岩，上面刻著「赤崁村紫菜養殖場姑婆嶼管理員駐守所」。下款所題的是「民國五十七年歲次戊申臘月重建」，十幾年的光陰，倒沒有替房屋外觀添加多少古舊的風貌。

　　房屋名前方，一段弧形的石垣，圍著一小口水井，可供飲用，旁邊另有一棟玄武岩和石堆疊的低矮小屋，是原始的「管理員駐在所」，現在只用來推放漁網、漁具。

　　澎湖產紫菜的島嶼不少，但若論產量之冠，便非姑婆嶼莫屬了！因為姑婆嶼廣闊的岩礁石台，冬天時浪花紛飛，正是紫菜生長的理想環境，如能再有充分的陽光配合，那就必然豐收可期了。

在那海畔青青草

　　爬上海拔二十一公尺的北側方山，這是一塊平坦的台地，該算是姑婆嶼「主峰」吧！兩側起伏著圓緩的草坡，北側是尖峭的斷崖，騁目四顧，南有「白沙」、「土地公」、東有「鐵砧」，東北方遙遙可見的一大片雪亮，是極有名的吉貝嶼突出長達一千公尺的「沙嘴」，西邊僅有幾塊小岩礁，北方則有茫茫一片，再無島嶼，澎湖有詩云：「姑婆北去天水，七美南行浪拍空」，即是謂此。

　　北山以南，連接著兩座狹長低平的小台地，至盡頭是面積最大而且最平坦，海拔十五尺高的南方山。自北山一路連綿向南，台地上盡是清涼爽目蒼翠。耐旱多汗的常青針狀葉植物覆滿了地表，盱衡澎湖，很少有能像姑婆嶼這麼綠意盎然的無賴島。有趣的是草坡上交織著一些四通八達，寬約十公分的小徑，那是硬大的野鼠經常熙來攘往，踩踏出的「鄉間小路」，如非親眼目睹，真令人難以置信！

海濱入目多奇景

　　楊姓業者說：姑婆嶼的海濱最多為多彩多姿，島嶼西、北兩側環境大片的玄武岩礁平台，隨著潮汐沉浮海面。西側的兩片略呈靈芝狀，北側的環著北方，東西長達一千公尺的壯觀，像一條橫臥水面的海馬，真是維妙維肖。海馬彎曲的尾巴在東北岸圍成另一個不小的月牙海彎，足可容得下一、二十艘漁舟，藍得泛紫的海水在灣內相激相盪，藍海、白浪、黑岩，構成一幅色調強烈的大自然彩圖。海馬尾巴的末端由於海蝕下陷，另外獨立出一塊突兀的礁石，像一座五個山峰的筆架，大家習慣稱之為「筆架岩」、或「五指岩」。

　　岩礁「平台」實際上並不太平坦，有許多潮地和海蝕岩溝遍布其間，清澈可見的海葵、魚蟹和陽光下的結晶鹽，像是耀眼的碎粒金鋼鑽，酷熱的黑岩上，綠白相間的頭髮菜成絲成縷地，鋪成了一隻飄逸的鳳凰，幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫。

　　姑婆嶼的東側、南側屬於岩岸，間雜著幾處沙灘，其中又以南岸廣裘一片的細沙最為潔白柔軟，赤著腳走在上頭，真有漫步在天堂之上幸福感。岩岸也頗有可觀，第一是色彩美，第二是造形美，西諺云：「滾動的石頭不生苔」。反過來一樣正確，這兒長年屹立不動的玄武岩塊附滿了青苔，黑岩、綠苔、白沙、藍海，大自然把色彩調配得多麼動人。

　　坐在磊磊的巨岩上，海風送來，景色如畫，聽潮水靜靜地低訴，看浪花快樂的跳躍，有如人在仙境。沿著海岸走去，俯拾皆是珊瑚礁和各種奇石，雖是亭園栽擺飾的佳品，但目不暇給，行易有限公司不知如何挑選！

資料來源：澎湖時報 2006/05/24