Spots:《熱門景點》戀人啊,心心相印遊七美20060719


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《熱門景點》戀人啊,心心相印遊七美


【王曉鈴/澎湖報導】

  小小的七美島,愛情故事真不少。如果在七夕帶著心愛的人來七美,手牽手俯瞰海上兩顆心,心串串、心蹦蹦,將是一趟完美的浪漫之旅。

  愛情與麵包如何兼顧?這個難解的習題,七美人早已經給了答案。

  菊島海鮮節與情人節第五度在澎湖相遇,而七美這個澎湖群島最南方的島嶼,離島中的離島,風土民情有自己的個性,原本單純用來捕魚的石滬,在七美人手中卻變成了引人遐思的雙心造型,可以溫飽肚子,又能表徵浪漫,愛情與麵包一起到手。七夕情人節時,如果能帶著情人來七美造訪,兩個人手牽手從崖邊俯瞰海上兩顆心,再看看身邊心愛的人,心心相印,浪漫到不行。

  雙心很美麗,但是心事誰人知?原來,位於七美東北角的雙心石滬 ,是從前漁民用石頭疊砌成的捕魚陷阱,漲潮時魚兒游入石滬,退潮時游不出去,到時候漁民就可以輕鬆抓魚了。澎湖群島共有500座石滬,而雙心石滬是最有名的一座,被譽為世界上最美麗的石滬,也成為澎湖美景首選。

  雙心石滬如今不捕魚,變成熱門觀光景點,漁民也沒想到吃飯的傢伙竟成為旅人眼中的浪漫地標,愛的陷阱,其實是一場美麗的意外。

  ■七美人塚 芳心永寄一葉荻

  然而,不是所有女人都能得到美好的愛情。

  「七美人兮白璧姿,抱貞拒賊兮死隨之;英魂永寄孤芳樹,井上長春兮開滿枝。」這是七美人塚墓碑上的詩句,說的是島上最哀傷的傳說。

  明朝嘉靖年間(西元1522~1566),正是倭寇海盜猖狂的年代,有一天,海盜從七美南部海岸登陸,衝到魚月鯉港一帶殺人放火姦淫擄掠,當時七位女子逃到窪地井邊,無地可躲,又擔心受辱,於是一起跳入井中自盡。

  海盜走了之後,鄉人將井填平作為七位女子的墳墓,不知過了多少年,墳上長出一葉荻,當地人叫它香花樹,在強烈海風吹襲下仍然枝葉茂盛,綠意盎然,大家便說那是七位烈女的化身。

  故事流傳了四百多年後,民國38年澎湖縣長決定以這個貞節故事作為島名,浪漫的「七美」取代原先「大嶼」舊名。

  七美人塚有個禁忌,據說亂攀折樹枝會遭到肚子痛的報應,只是沒人敢實驗印證。當地人崇敬七位烈女,墳上可以看到梳子、針線、古龍水、香粉等傳統女性用品,不過時代進步了,如今祭祀品加上粉餅、眉筆,還有七色指甲油與眼影,艷陽高照,防曬油也不能少,現代女人梳妝台上的化妝品,七位烈女樣樣不缺。

  塚後方有一座碎石堆砌的石敢當。澎湖到處可以看到石敢當,用來擋風避邪,各地形式與材質皆不同,眼前的這座石敢當就地取材,以七美的玄武岩疊造出石塔形狀,頗為壯觀,遠遠的就發現它的存在。

  七美人塚一方面是在地民間信仰,同時也是觀光勝地,兩種身分努力融合的結果,是拜訪七美人塚需要付出30元門票代價,是島上唯一要付費的景點,擴大整建為宮殿式建築的七美人貞節園,有旅遊服務中心、涼亭與公廁等觀光設施。

  ■沿岸風光 獅子猛龍看清楚

  七美的傳說很美,沿岸風光也迷人。乘車或租輛摩托車,從島上最南端的望夫石玩起,一路北上遊魚月鯉灣戲水區、石獅、龍埕、小台灣,抵達東北端的雙心石滬,景點距離都很近,但是要記得下車時隨身攜帶想像力,才能玩得有趣。

  望夫石也有一段愛的故事,傳說有一對恩愛的夫妻,丈夫每天出海捕魚,妻子傍晚時都會去海邊接丈夫回來,有一天暴風來襲,懷著身孕的妻子苦等不到丈夫回來,第二天她又繼續等,第三天、第四天… …,直到她死了都盼不到,後來好多年過去了,人們發現海邊岩石變成一個婦人形狀,像極了當年那位望夫歸來的妻子。

  當地人教我怎麼用想像力去看望夫石,瞧!真的很像一位腳朝大海仰躺的婦人,有胸有腰,肚子還突起像個孕婦。

  車北上來到魚月鯉灣戲水區,沙灘舖滿白色的珊瑚碎屑,清澈的海水讓同行的人忍不住直接跳下水游個暢快,不怕濕淋淋,反正南島陽光一下子就把衣服烘乾。沿著沙灘往前走,有一處壯觀的玄武岩柱,一條條橫著堆疊,如果也讓我也來想像一下,我覺得像是頑皮神仙才剛玩過的疊疊樂。

  再往北行,留意了!海邊有一隻獅子現身,然後是一條猛龍過海,只是並非活生生的,而是大自然鬼斧神工的作品,分別稱為石獅、龍埕。接下來,連台灣也搬到七美了,海蝕平台經多年沖刷侵蝕,竟成為台灣形狀,「小台灣」實在很神奇。

  七美鄉公所財經課課長洪偉堯對家鄉的美很自豪,他打趣說:「我曾經在電視上看過挪威的峽灣,我不知道地形有什麼不一樣,但我怎麼看,都覺得跟七美差不多!」

  ■島上即景 藍天碧海黑羊群

  我在七美那天,看到三輛大型遊覽車載滿遊客一路觀光,洪課長也很難得同時看到這麼多遊客,他說:「近年來馬路拓寬了,車子往來方便多了,島上還有公車行走,搭乘是免費的。」

  遊覽車一把遊客載走,當地馬上又回復靜謐冷清,只剩下擺攤賣澎湖花生的阿公、阿婆。最有青春活力的,就屬隨處可見的黑羊了,羊咩咩很隨性的在草地上咀嚼,過馬路時,車子都得停下來等牠們,看著大羊領著小羊整齊通過的奇妙景象,洪課長開玩笑說:「這些羊有時還會乖乖的排成一直線,像阿兵哥一樣,只差沒聽到牠們答數!」

  ■旅遊資訊:即日起自7月31日七美舉辦九孔美食節,活動期間推出套裝遊程,有一日與二日行程,包含九孔大餐,洽國內各旅行社或七美鄉公所/06-9971007轉55財經課。


資料來源:[中國時報] 2006/07/19