Spots:台灣念真情之尋找台灣角落:被遺忘的國土-澎湖西嶼坪


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  • 文章名稱:被遺忘的國土-澎湖西嶼坪
  • 資料來源書:台灣念真情
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備註:感謝網友hyelim提供打字與提供電子檔。

  • 文章內文

一九九六年十月二十一日

  東北季風開始肆虐的季節裏,選擇到澎湖的西嶼坪。而預定的行程只有兩天,這樣的安排,想來不得不承認自己的愚昧,承認自己對自己所居住土地的不了解。

  十月二十一日到達馬公港當天,海上風浪八級,交通船暫時停開,直到下午風浪稍平,交通船勉強開航在海面上晃盪了四十分鐘才到望安,當天只好在望安打尖第一天就這麼過去了。第二天託老天之福,離望安五十分鐘船程的西嶼坪終於去得了了。隨行的村幹事李世賢先生說,我們仍得祈禱回程的天氣,因為萬一東北季風一來,大夥就可能得留在西嶼坪待上十天半個月的。

  村幹事對西嶼坪上的每個人如數家珍,但這也不是很難的事,全倒就十個居民。那天村長生病,住到馬公去,太太隨行照顧,所以當天全島只剩八個人,平均年齡六十五歲。八個人當中並不包括派出所的主管。

  看到島上只剩半面依舊飄揚的國旗,以及預防因為柴油運補不及島上無法發電而備用的超大型廟宇用蠟燭,也許你就能了解,為什麼主管一直強調說他不是來這裡服務,而是來修行的。

  望安西嶼坪所在的位置是黑潮流經的地方,原本漁產豐富,而且靠岸休息的漁船很多,但近年來由於外來漁船的濫捕,甚至炸魚、毒魚,居民說,連近海要看到一條魚都很難。那人靠什麼過日子呢?他們說「靠命」!

  島上的「天下第一家」總共四口人,是當天全島人口的一半。但四口人中最年輕的第三代,卻是腦性麻痺的患者。但說來幸運,他有父母及爺爺近乎二十四小時的照顧,不過這樣的幸運說來也無奈,因為島就這麼小,雖然父母是全島唯一還能出海捕魚以及種點蔬菜的人,但走再遠也還是在這小島上。

  除了靠「命」生活,後來我們才知道全島居民多多少少都依賴政府各種不同的救助金過日子。這一家因為貧困以及一個長期臥病的小孩,而阿婆蔡池柄女士除了年老之外,也因為行動不便,而領殘障補助。當我們拜訪蔡女士時,她熱情的要我們吃蕃薯稀飯和魚,我們客氣的婉謝。也因為聽我們說吃過飯了,阿婆有點失望,可是也是不死心的生了火,煎了一個蛋要我們吃。說是土雞生的蛋,很營養。但雞蛋有點壞了,我們不敢說,心想那一定是阿婆珍藏了好幾天捨不得吃的東西。鄰居說阿婆的命很硬,這被子總共嫁了九個老公,目前有三個女兒、一個兒子。阿婆唯一的兒子現在在坐牢。鄰居替她抱不平的說,政府的補助金都直接寄到郵局的戶頭,但這裡沒有郵局,住馬公的女兒把錢全領了,卻不太來看阿婆。

  或許島上人少,彼此都沒有秘密,而生活背景也都一樣,講別人的故事似乎講的也是是自己的一生。

  島上十室九空,只有門口掛著魚乾的房子,才表示人有居住。喝的水是深井抽取的地下水;燃料,因瓦斯太重,運送不便,所以家家戶戶到現在用的還是撿來的乾柴乾草。電是島上的發電廠用柴油發電機供應的。發電廠管理員這個職位也是全村唯一的工作機會。因為手部殘障、同樣領殘障補助金的呂鐵碌先生,本來是發電廠的管理員,但因為高植澎縣長下台換人,他也莫名其妙的被內閣改組下台。現在他在養雞,養的是半土半養的仿仔雞。他說自己的名字不好。命的跟鐵一樣,而且一輩子都得忙忙碌碌。聽他這麼一說,原本都講到嘴邊的話,像「不錯啊!十個人住一個島耶!」「空氣很好啊!」「生活沒有壓力啊!健康長壽!」這一類的話,連忙吞了回去,好像一講,就暴露了自己城市的小布爾喬亞的無知心態吧!

  全島兩句公共電話的一部,就放在呂先生屋外避風的圍牆下,不過目前是故障的。什麼時候能修好?不知道!要是天氣不好,即便想修,人也來不了。呂鐵碌最後說:「在這樣一個海外孤島活著,命不硬一點,凡事如不靠自己的一雙手,天天忙個不停又能 怎麼?」

  回程,東北季風增強了。惡名昭彰的黑水溝波濤再起。來的時候擔心自己留在這個島上十天半個月回不去,現在這樣的惡夢好像解脫了。但想一想,還有人在島上呢,而且是一輩子都活在那裏!