Spots:姑婆嶼上 幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫
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姑婆嶼上 幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫
前言:遠處遙望像似把玲瓏有致的「如意」的姑婆嶼,除盛產野生紫菜聞名中外之外,其廣闊的岩礁石台,海畔的青青草原,冬季時節的浪花紛紛飛,都讓人歎為觀止,昨日在島上經營水上活上的楊姓業者說,姑婆嶼上幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫,其幽美的奇景很受遊客們的喜愛。
紫菜之島
站在澎湖跨海大橋向北方瞭望,數哩外的海面上散布著一群島嶼,較近的兩座,左邊為土地公嶼,右邊是白沙嶼(澎湖有好幾處白沙嶼),遠處左側最大的一塊是姑婆嶼,右側次大的為鐵砧嶼。四月?的一個晴朗天氣,幾個人搭上一艘小漁船,航向澎湖的西北海,終於叩訪了這些嚮往已久的無人島。
姑婆嶼像一把玲瓏有致的如意,由南北四座連綿不絕的「方山」(指頂面平坦而四周陡峭的山狀地形)組成,滿潮時,面積零點二平方公里,乾潮時,裸露出大片岩礁,面積增加一倍,海岸線亦長達三千公尺。正對「碼頭」的山坡上,有間費人猜疑的平頂水泥屋,一個門,兩扇窗。兩坪大的空間滿簡陋得連門板都沒有,門旁鑲嵌著一方玄武岩,上面刻著「赤崁村紫菜養殖場姑婆嶼管理員駐守所」。下款所題的是「民國五十七年歲次戊申臘月重建」,十幾年的光陰,倒沒有替房屋外觀添加多少古舊的風貌。
房屋名前方,一段弧形的石垣,圍著一小口水井,可供飲用,旁邊另有一棟玄武岩和石堆疊的低矮小屋,是原始的「管理員駐在所」,現在只用來推放漁網、漁具。
澎湖產紫菜的島嶼不少,但若論產量之冠,便非姑婆嶼莫屬了!因為姑婆嶼廣闊的岩礁石台,冬天時浪花紛飛,正是紫菜生長的理想環境,如能再有充分的陽光配合,那就必然豐收可期了。
在那海畔青青草
爬上海拔二十一公尺的北側方山,這是一塊平坦的台地,該算是姑婆嶼「主峰」吧!兩側起伏著圓緩的草坡,北側是尖峭的斷崖,騁目四顧,南有「白沙」、「土地公」、東有「鐵砧」,東北方遙遙可見的一大片雪亮,是極有名的吉貝嶼突出長達一千公尺的「沙嘴」,西邊僅有幾塊小岩礁,北方則有茫茫一片,再無島嶼,澎湖有詩云:「姑婆北去天水,七美南行浪拍空」,即是謂此。
北山以南,連接著兩座狹長低平的小台地,至盡頭是面積最大而且最平坦,海拔十五尺高的南方山。自北山一路連綿向南,台地上盡是清涼爽目蒼翠。耐旱多汗的常青針狀葉植物覆滿了地表,盱衡澎湖,很少有能像姑婆嶼這麼綠意盎然的無賴島。有趣的是草坡上交織著一些四通八達,寬約十公分的小徑,那是硬大的野鼠經常熙來攘往,踩踏出的「鄉間小路」,如非親眼目睹,真令人難以置信!
海濱入目多奇景
楊姓業者說:姑婆嶼的海濱最多為多彩多姿,島嶼西、北兩側環境大片的玄武岩礁平台,隨著潮汐沉浮海面。西側的兩片略呈靈芝狀,北側的環著北方,東西長達一千公尺的壯觀,像一條橫臥水面的海馬,真是維妙維肖。海馬彎曲的尾巴在東北岸圍成另一個不小的月牙海彎,足可容得下一、二十艘漁舟,藍得泛紫的海水在灣內相激相盪,藍海、白浪、黑岩,構成一幅色調強烈的大自然彩圖。海馬尾巴的末端由於海蝕下陷,另外獨立出一塊突兀的礁石,像一座五個山峰的筆架,大家習慣稱之為「筆架岩」、或「五指岩」。
岩礁「平台」實際上並不太平坦,有許多潮地和海蝕岩溝遍布其間,清澈可見的海葵、魚蟹和陽光下的結晶鹽,像是耀眼的碎粒金鋼鑽,酷熱的黑岩上,綠白相間的頭髮菜成絲成縷地,鋪成了一隻飄逸的鳳凰,幅幅都是絕美的抽象畫。
姑婆嶼的東側、南側屬於岩岸,間雜著幾處沙灘,其中又以南岸廣裘一片的細沙最為潔白柔軟,赤著腳走在上頭,真有漫步在天堂之上幸福感。岩岸也頗有可觀,第一是色彩美,第二是造形美,西諺云:「滾動的石頭不生苔」。反過來一樣正確,這兒長年屹立不動的玄武岩塊附滿了青苔,黑岩、綠苔、白沙、藍海,大自然把色彩調配得多麼動人。
坐在磊磊的巨岩上,海風送來,景色如畫,聽潮水靜靜地低訴,看浪花快樂的跳躍,有如人在仙境。沿著海岸走去,俯拾皆是珊瑚礁和各種奇石,雖是亭園栽擺飾的佳品,但目不暇給,行易有限公司不知如何挑選!
資料來源:澎湖時報 2006/05/24