Spots:初遇菊島


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From PHSea

(Redirected from 初遇菊島)

作者:一筆


面海的窗─澎湖


  澎湖,悄然盤據於台灣海峽的中央,她的萬縷風情總帶著幾分神秘,招引著異地愛慕者湧來一親芳澤。


  澎湖群島為一海底火山爆發後熔岩冷卻的方山島嶼,由六十四座大小島嶼羅列而成,地勢低緩,海拔至高點的貓嶼僅達七十九公尺,除花嶼為玢岩組成,其餘島嶼和礁岩皆為玄武岩地質構造。天工鑿就的奇崖拱岩,危巒巨石壯闊驚險,柱狀及放射狀的玄武岩節理發達,黝黑、楮紅的玄武岩色調散發堅毅果敢的氣氛,襯以蔚藍海水及皚皚白雲相映成趣。金色沙灘也是澎湖得天獨厚的國際級美景,吉貝沙尾最富盛名,望安沙灘因為世界保育的綠蠵龜迴游產卵而聲名大噪。


  少雨多風,夏季日曬強烈,降雨量少於蒸發量,氣候條件影響植被景觀:草原茂盛,天人菊、蘆薈、仙人掌及龍舌蘭等耐旱植種繁茂生長,綴以點點黃牛,深具田野情調。


  澎湖群島港澳發達,海岸秀麗崎嶇,北方冷流和南方的黑潮交會於澎湖海域,輔以未受污染的清澈海水,成為海洋生物繁衍寄居的天堂,除了海底景致引人入勝,海洋資源豐饒也促進澎湖漁業活動的發達:舉凡漁撈產業、傳統石滬、牽罟、抱墩等潮間帶活動以及近年推廣的沿海箱網養殖,都凸顯澎湖海洋子民的活力。


  澎湖歷史發展早於台灣三百年,在唐山過台灣的遷徙歷史過程扮演中繼站的澎湖,孕育出深邃的文化內涵和人文古蹟:中央街為台澎最早的漢人聚落;四百餘年歷史的天后宮是台澎歷史最悠久的媽祖信仰中心,為抗禦困厄的自然環境所衍生出軀邪避煞的宗教信仰、寺廟活動、鎮風石塔及石敢當等心靈屏障文化,除了塑造島民虔誠知足的性格外,更保存人文建築中的璀璨藝術成就。向海取材的咾咕石民宅建築,搭配為了抵禦季風所發展出的菜宅,構成澎湖傳統聚落迷人的魅力。


島嶼


  澎湖群島,懸繫於北迴歸線兩側的百餘顆璀璨珍珠。黝黑、褐黃與赤紅的玄武岩節理是千百萬年前的海底火山熔岩,在寧靜而含蓄的騷動後留下的皺紋。玄武岩凝成的島掩映著崢嶸的稜線,每片遺世般的岩礁皆風情萬千:有則軒昂地參天、有則率性地輻射開、有則寫意地仰臥。浪濤服貼地收斂在巨石的腳下,襯出島的沈斂。海岸線活潑地蜿蜒,港澳一站站地銜接,像迎風舞踴的緞帶,牽引著候鳥南渡棲憩。纖柔的沙灘蒐集著海洋中皚皚的貝和古老珊瑚,佐以調酒色調般的海面。寡雨的低緩草原不減其蒼鬱,天人菊、仙人掌兀自怒放,豐豔且不捨瘠沃。


  即使夜晚,村燈與漁火使羅列的島嶼像星子散步在星圖上。


  菊島,非常陽光。

生活


  走過1281年,元朝艦隊遠征日本的誤航澎湖,歷史開始在島嶼上咬著史家的筆;走過1604年,荷蘭的商旅泊向天后宮庇佑的媽宮港,將澎湖划進世界遽變的軌道;走過1885年中法的烽火,殞落的砲火揭示了澎湖列島為台灣命運的咽喉;走過1895年的甲午戰事,異國的殖民豐富了民情,未曾撼動風土。


  唐山過台灣,七百餘年的開拓遷徙,澎湖先民孓然地橫越狂濤怒摑的黑水溝,攜著一只小小青布肩包,裡頭裝進的是兩百餘座廟宇的心靈慰靠,是媽宮城繁華的七街一市,是閩南風的古厝比鄰,是孕育絲瓜的一圈圈菜宅,是敬天的虔誠儀禮和與海為伍的生活慧黠。


  荒原上的石敢當鎮住滄桑與邪煞,如今的澎湖,烽火冷卻而文化加溫。


子民

  風的子民:從海打撈起咾咕石堆疊成一簇簇的菜宅抵禦東北季風,花生,絲瓜,南瓜豐饒其間;傳統麵線的製法藉著海風搗著古味。


  海的子民:潮間帶拾螺的漁婦從春季一路撿了下來;夏季船首爭逐赤崁外海成群的丁香;秋季群聚在海灘牽罟,吆喝聲中喜迎豐收;冬季漁船即使因季風狂襲而歇在港內,姑婆嶼上猶有紫菜在浪濤間甜美滋生。


  陽光的子民:蒙面女郎和曬漁場的魚香都透露一種勤奮的風味。


  火焰之子:千錘百鍊的石雕師傅漫舞於玄武岩的雕藝之中;文石眼折射瑰寶的鋒芒,伴著刻工細膩的橫豎烙印。


  從典型到新銳,生活內涵如此豐沛,活力海洋打造一座賜予子民的富庶島嶼。


破繭


  沙灘,藍天和澄澈的海水,輔以未有過多生硬人工鑿痕的秀麗海岸,構成澎湖群島無懈可擊的魅力。而新的廣告文案也悄悄上演:漁人碼頭在夜間燈火掩映中成為新寵;吉貝、險礁、鳥嶼諸島招引弄潮者紛至沓來;箱網養殖區儼然成為戶外水族館,體驗漁村生活;海釣客和點點風帆錯落海岸邊,悠閒地打發一整個午後;馬公商圈風情婆娑地一路蔓延到堤岸,從藝品店內極容易發現海島文化培養的創意;加上青青草地妝點了綠色的公共空間,澎湖~~嶄新的海島景致。


  蛻變正在發生,從國際機場明亮的落地窗遠眺,望見藍色巨翼舒展了更遠的航程,澎湖已然是摩登感十足的海洋詩人。


樂居


  海洋的遼闊是一種自由,島的堅硬是一種安定,生活在菊島,幸福是一件唾手可得的事情。島上的人民飽含著一種含蓄的友善,人的分際不那麼顯要,熱情是一種遺傳血統。在菊島,孩童裸足在沙灘上戲水泅泳,歡顏宛如每一個足印清晰地綁在沙灘上,屬於海的童年不會焦慮。這是一座身體不被壓抑的島嶼,風浪板,獨木舟,衝浪者或簡簡單單的自行車道,洋溢休閒的生活逸趣。忙碌使島民倍感滿足,生活步調悠閒而緩慢,有更多的時間陶冶藝術的巧思,每日都有新的有藝術家誕生,這也是一座瞭解文化傳承的島嶼,透過戶外的教學習得先民的歷史與生活方式。


  生活在菊島,是一件容易上癮的事情。


永續


  澎湖~海之驕子。海洋賜予了豐富的生態瑰寶,從搖曳款款的紅珊瑚到婆娑輕舞的豔麗熱帶魚,以及舉世保育的綠蠵龜,都聚攏在這片純淨的海域。身為海洋守護者的我們,必學會更謙卑地善待,就像我們將貓嶼讓渡給燕鷗,使候鳥不被驚擾,每年依著季候作客過境澎湖;也把青螺海灘還給水筆仔;保育一處又一處的沙灘,指引綠蠵龜原鄉產卵;約束漁具和漁撈方式,確保海洋資源永不竭盡;溫柔地對待潮間帶的淺水礁岩,呵護珊瑚的無價資產。


  寶貝我們的島,讓無價的海洋資源和澎湖一起繼續闊步前進。